World Trip 2005
Buenos Aires - Argentina
 

 

Day 01 - Hola Buenos Aires!   Now we are talking vacation!  How cool is Buenos Aires?   I arrived in town via a car pick up service and the driver was kind enough to give me a load of tips and places to visit.   He also waited with me until the apartment block owner turned up with the keys.  Facundo turned up with keys swinging in his hand and hung around for a while to tell me about a load of places I should visit during my stay.   Buenos Aires looks great... and my apartment is in the best area.  Everything is here that I need.  Though grocery shopping in the Disco Supermaket  ( no kidding) threw me a little though I had trouble finding what the milk and juice containers looked like.
Fading fast...  I will have to remember to another do session here tomorrow.

Day 02 - Abasto:   I slept for 13 hours last night.    A cool night in a quiet room...  that's all it took to keep me sleeping forever.   I LOVE BUENOS AIRES!   I knew I had saved the best for last.   I will definitely be coming back here again.
Now only because it's cold here and I had no warm clothes I had to spend the day shopping at the big Abasto shopping centre on the other side of town.   The cab far over there cost 4 bucks.   Everything is really cheap here.   Today I bought 5 t-shirts, 2 woollen jumpers, a trainer top, a shirt and a furry lined denim jacket for just $A300.   I'm spending pesos like there's no tomorrow.
I'm getting by pretty well with my 3 words of Spanish so far.   And if it's a problem it's always a laugh trying to work it out.   Apart from cheap shopping the people here are really beautiful.   I could go on for hours here about how beautiful they are...  but I won't.   WHat I will say is that I love the fact that all the guys have the longish floppy hair that I had in the mid 70's.   Could I grow my hair like that again?
Let me also say something about my apartment.  It cost me just $US330 for a week and it's beautiful!  It is in the BEST part of town.  I'm surrounded by restaurants, bars and 24 hour shopping!  Did someone mention shopping?   Oh... I already spoke about that.   I'm really impressed that the younger staff try not to speak to me when they see that I won't manage anything past the Hola.   The sign language that comes out is very cute.   Twirling arms around yourself is a good way to find the fitting rooms.   They even do something tricky so I don't have to pay the 21% sales tax here.
Oops...  I was banging on about the apartment.  It has a TV with about 80 channels and I think 3 or 4 of them are in english.   Central heating, a stereo system, a neat little kitchen and a cute doorman.   What else could you ask for?
A few facts maybe....    400 pedesterians die on the streets here each year.   There is dog poo everywhere.   The place at night looks like a cross between Hong Kong and Paris.   Guards with guns man every ATM machine at banks.   Guards also man most stores.   The air is clean and the forecast for tomorrow is 20 degrees celcius.   Taxis cost about 10 US cents a mile (or it seems that cheap).   McDonalds sell burgers with Italian names.   Combos can come with beer.   Meals with steak cost about $US4.00.    Nightclubs start getting busy at 2am.   People here don't eat dinner until around 10.30pm.   Welcome to Buenos Aires!

Day 03 - Touring Recoleta:   Today I met Guillerme.  He runs different walking tours of the areas of Buenos Aires.  I decided to take a look around the area I live in..  the Recoleta.  This also includes the Recoleta Cemetery where a number of famous people live, including Eva Peron.   I found the cemetery to be actually quite spooky.  You can see many of the coffins through windows or open doors.  And some of the coffins are in poor condition and are falling apart.   I found myself trying not to look too hard at them.   Guillerme told me about one girl who had attempted suicide and was buried alive.   They found proof that she had tried to escape but eventually died.  So they moved her into the more exclusive Recoleta Cemetery.   The tour also took me past some beautiful old palaces, and down some of the exclusive shopping streets.   In between gazing at beautiful buildings we had to watch for Buenos Aires 2 biggest annoyances...  the dangerous street traffic and the dog poo on the pavement.   There are laws here governing cleaning up after your dogs but it is not enforced.  So people generally leave their dog's mess behind...   especially the professional dog walkers.    Later that night I met Andres at McDonalds for dinner.   I was really surprised when we finished dinner that one of the McDonalds employees cam over and asked if we'd like dessert or tea or coffee....   and then brought it to our table!   I was shocked...  table service at McDonalds???
Andres told me that he'd been robbed 3 times in Buenos Aires.  He gave me a few pointers to help me not experience this during my stay here.   It's not that common and can simply be a case of avoiding certain areas in the city.   Getting taxis in uncertain areas is a good idea too.  Taxis across town cost just 6 pesos  (3 dollars).

Day 04 - Megatlon:    I've just realised that I'm now taking weekend breaks from my vacation.   Today I got up late, did some stuff on the site, chatted to friends back home for over an hour on Skype and then went and joined a gym for the week.   Megatlon is a gym chain here in BA.  The one around the corner is just 6 months old and has some really nice equipment.   It felt odd working out after not having been to the gym for over 2 weeks.   But of course I felt so much better afterwards.  I always get a rush after having been to the gym.  So I went to a place called "Cinema" which is not a cinema at all for a burger.  And it seems that every meal here comes with steak.   When the meal arrives...  look around...  there is a steak lurking under there somewhere.
On the way home I picked up some savoury pastries (and I'm sure there is a spanish name for them that I can't remember right now) and some cakes.  The plan....  to sit on my bed watching MTV and gorging myself stupid all night.  Later I might head out and check out a bar or two.

Disturbing TV:   It's amazing how much you learn from TV.   Today I realized how film editing sometimes protects us.  News stories in Australia generally will not show certain things that are deemed inappropriate for families to view.   I am sitting here watching TV Cronica.  It appears to be a local news channel.   They are showing a car accident involving 3 cars in the night.   And incredibly they are showing the faces of the people that are still trapped in the cars.  They also showed a man being zipped into a body bag.  An old lady facing the wrong way in the back seat of a wrecked car.  Arms hanging out of another car.   Of course it was one of those moments where I couldn't look away.   It's like visiting Ogrish.com....   you know it's there but you can't look away.  It really made me realize how much our media protects us from such images.

Day 05 - San Telmo:   Sunday is market day down at San Telmo.  This is where loads of stalls set up to sell all sorts of antique items, paintings, photos, clothes and food.   It really is a great day to experience some of the Argentinian culture in the heart of tango land.   There are also many people giving small tango shows and loads of other street performers.  I spent the afternoon wandering about before I headed down Ave Florida through the pedestrian mall.  I could tell that it was a little quieter than normal as many of the shops were closed.  But the huge Gallerias Pacifico was open.  What a beautiful old shopping centre.  This place was built in 1889.  It was vastly improved in 1945.  Now it is full of stores like Ralph Lauren and Lacoste.  The centre obviously caters more towards the tourists in the area.....   jut like the people at the front doors asking for money for "the poor children".   On the way home I picked up a box of delicious empanadas for dinner.  They are savoury pastries stuffed with all kinds of delicious fillings.   The food here is amazingly delicious!

Toys - I was beside myself today when I found a toy collectors store in San Telmo.   They had many of the matchbox cars I had as a kid.  In mint condition!  I remember how annoyed I was when my little brother started to take over my "cars" or even got better ones than I had.  Then even more annoyed when my mum gave them away to other kids!   Many of them were half destroyed anyway.  I had this thing that when the cars paint started to chip away I would repaint them a new colour with my textas.  
Anyway, I was really surprised to find many of the cars (from the 1970's) here in this store.   I wrote this little story to justify spending 20 bucks on the little pink Charlies Angels van.   What a classic!

Day 06 - Cruising Sante Fe:   The day started out to find a cinema and see a movie (hopefully in english).   I walked down one end of Av Sante Fe and realised I had gone the wrong way.   Sante Fe is one of the major Avenues that stretches from one end of Buenos Aires to the other.  And it is full of shops, bars, restaurants with people trying to sell all kinds of things.   I walked forever and eventually found myself in the Alto Palermo Shopping Centre where I stopped for lunch in the food court there.   Stupidly I ordered a steak from one of the stores there and they served me the chewiest steak ever with a plastic knife and fork.   And I think some people seated nearby were laughing as I struggled to carved through it.  Anyway, terror struck as I realised I had too much steak in my mouth that I couldn't bite through.  I had flashbacks to a choking moment when I was a kid when my dad had to pick me up and hit me to stop me from dying.  And then to that episode of 6 Feet Under where the women died from choking.   So I quickly surveyed the nearby tables to see who I would run to for help if I started choking....  and then swallowed the lump of meat whole.   To celebrate my accomplishment I went and bought myself a beautiful green jacket.   I'm really into those padded parker style jackets at the moment.   I know it's a bit late for winter...  but there'll always be another one.   I then kept walking up Sante Fe until I realised I had left my map.   So I got a taxi back home.  I didn't find any cinemas.

Day 07 - Jardin Zoologica:   After a quick work out at Megatlon I jumped in a taxi and headed to the Buenos Aires Zoo.   I was surprised at how long it took me to ask the driver to take me to the zoo.  I was even pointing at it on the street map.   Eventually I arrived there and paid the $2 admission fee.    The Buenos Aires Zoo is quite beautiful.   Some of the structures the animals are held in are amazing.   The place is hidden right in the middle of the city with many apartment buildings looking down into the animal enclosures.   I could see the monkeys studying the movements of the people on their balconies nearby.   I also saw many species that I'd never seen before.   I really liked the polar bear enclosure where you could go below the water level to see the bear swimming about.   The familes around me appeared to be very excited about this until the bear decided to take a dump in the pristine blue swimming pool.   I also liked the Llamas because the warning signs said that they spit at zoo visitors.
On the way home I went to the supermarket and bought a stack of pastries to sample.  They are sooo delicious!

Day 08 - De Lovely:   Have you noticed yet that my mornings are missing?   That's because I'm getting out of bed just before midday each day.  For some reason I have been sleeping loads while I've been here.   Today I went down the Florida Ave mall for lunch and then to meet Andres to see a movie.  Luckily Andres came prepared with the movie guide.  We walked up to the Premiere Cinema to see De Lovely.  Most of the cinemas in this area are pretty old.   The movie cost 5 1/2 pesos.  About 2 bucks.   The funniest thing happened.  The movie started right on time so the cinema was very dark.   I tried to follow Andres into a row but lost him.   So there I was in front of the audience feeling my way seat by seat.  And when I eventually found the right spot it was too close.  So we went through the process again in another spot a few rows back.  Except this time I cam in contact with an old lady.   I had gone one seat too far.   My eyes really take a long time to adjust in the dark.
De Lovely is a film about the life of Cole Porter.  It is really a great story and a good fun movie.  There were a number of famous performers in it too like Alanis Morrisette, Robbie Williams and Natalie Cole.  It was a really nice night.  It finished up with Andres (who is a singer) singing Blue Latino to me in a park at the end of the Florida mall. 

Day 09 - The Buenos Aires Finale:   Today is my last day in Buenos Aires.  I haven't mentioned this...  but it became apparent as I packed my bags this afternoon.  I have shopped every day of my 9 days in Buenos Aires.   And now I am filling out 2 very large bags.  This now means that I will no longer move quickly through airports or across busy roads.  Today I went shopping at Alto Palermo Shopping Centre, Gallerias Pacifico and Abasto Shopping Centre.  Why 3?  Well I didn't mean to.  But shopping was at one, lunch was at another and then I went to Abasto to see a movie.  But somehow I managed to pick up "stuff" at all 3 of them.  And the taxi rides between them made them seem so close.  
At the end of the day I had a break in the Abasto Cinemas and saw Charlie and the Chocolate Factory  (in English with Spanish subtitles).  That is still a great story and I love Johnny Depp's twisted character.   Then it was back home to try and pack everything back into my bags.   I leave early tomorrow morning for Santiago.   I've booked a hotel there that I know nothing about.  Who likes surprises? 

 

PHOTOS


The view from the plane heading across Argentina

The beautiful Abasto Shopping Centre

Abasto

An appropriate name for a kids amusement centre?

My apartment (a bit blurry)

My apartment 2

The 16 lane Ave de 9 Julio

Equestrian statue of the liberator Downhill

This was once the tallest building in South America (20 floors)

The Falkland War Memorial

 

An old palace sticks out into the middle of the Avenue

Dog walkers

Ralph Lauren takes over an old house

Recoleta Cemetery

Spooky coffins in sight

Quite an elaborate tomb

This girl was originally buried alive..  leading to her death

Eva Peron's tomb

 

 

Recoleta Cemetery

A street entertainer stops the traffic

Buenos Aires University

 

The giant flower was meant to inspire students to study something other than law (?)

My tour guide Guillerme

Mmmm...  the sweet taste of full flavoured Melbours

Buenos Aires by night

Andres shows me around his town

This is the area I am staying in

San Telmo Fair on Sunday

Street performers

Markets

Markets

Tango Shows

Tango Shows

 

Tango Tango

San Telmo

Collectors Toy Store

 

 

Plaza de Mayor

 

Chasing pigeons in Plaza de Mayor

 

 

 

Thousands of pigeons take flight

 

Ave Florida pedestrian mall

 

The beautiful Gallerias Pacifico

Mmm..  empanadas

Rollin with the Angels

Stray cats in the park

Drool Drool

Freddos icecream

Jardin Zoologica

A warning to children entering the zoo

Pink Flamingoes in the background

The reptile pit

 

 

 

 

Apartments with a view of elephants

 

 

 

Stray cats

 

Spitting Llamas

 

Woolly Llamas

 

 

The emu looks out of place here

 

Polar Bear poo

Rats?

The supermarket meat section